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Ward, You're making me remember some interesting things about Edinburgh. When I was there, I was having a drink with my wife in the Grassmarket at a little pub that backed up against the cliffs of the castle. The bartender was telling us about a recent discovery in his pub. It seems he was peeling off some very old wallpaper and discovered a small door. After going thru that into a little room, there was a door on the other side. And through that - a witches coven dug out of the cliff, untouched after several hundred years. Complete with candles, markings, bones, etc. He wouldn't show it to us as city officials and people from the universities were studying it, but by now it may be on a tour. I was there about 7 years ago. Edinburgh is my favorite city in Europe by far. It's history seems more intact than many old cities. Evidenced by the fact that the "New City" is older than many buildings in America. Like Prague, WWII left it alone and the most dangerous threat to historic sites, real estate developers, weren't allowed to mess it up. Steve